Many of us would have seen the onset of 2023 as an opportunity to make positive changes in our lives and set goals (which are now often the ‘politically correct’ term for resolutions) accordingly. New year, new me anyone?!

As we contemplate how many of those we’ll achieve by the close of the year, unfortunately statistics aren’t on our side.

Although it is only early February, data suggests only a particularly small percentage of us are still working toward what we set out to achieve just 41 days ago. In fact, there were some resolutions that didn’t make it past the first week in January, with almost half of us experiencing ‘failure’ by the time February began.

According to a recent email from LifeHack, some of the reasons include: ‘feeling overwhelmed and unsure where to begin, losing steam and feeling stuck, losing sight of our goal without someone to hold us accountable, having to deal with unexpected events or circumstances that impede our progress, and struggling to maintain self-control and reverting to old habits.’

All is not lost though.

When we recognise the motivation we felt at the start of the year is beginning to dwindle, we can simply take the time to remind ourselves of why we set the resolutions (sorry, goals) in the first place.

Grit & Virtue suggest we consider why each goal is important to us and reflect on what impact they’ll have on our ‘life, family and those around us’.

Three of the ways Grit & Virtue recommended we can remind ourselves of our why is to write our goals out daily, create a vision board that represents what we’re setting out to achieve, and/or identify a word or phrase that aptly describes our why.

Whilst Grit & Virtue suggested we ‘make or buy an art or jewellery piece with the word or phrase’, we think we might just commit it to fabric with needle and thread.

But first, we just need to decide upon our word or phrase!

We’re hoping this new habit of remembering our why might not only be our key to success in continuing with, or resurrecting, our New Year’s resolutions but seeing the fruit of them come to pass as 2023 continues to unfold before us.

The following is an extract from the article published in Inspirations magazine #108, written by Ansie van der Walt.

Reem El Mutwalli arrived in the UAE in 1968 – the same year oil was discovered – as a young girl of five, when her father started working as economic consultant to Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, then the Crown Prince.

‘My childhood was spent in the company of the women and children of the UAE ruling families. In these inner circles of mothers, grandmothers, aunts, cousins, and friends I was surrounded by love and adoration, as well as with beauty. These memories of female friendship, love and splendour continue to feed my soul and guide my life choices to this day.’

Reem’s passion for textiles and clothing started at this young age when she fell in love with the dresses and garments of the women with whom she spent so much time. As she grew older Reem soon realised that she had a unique insight into an enclosed lifestyle that was not being documented.

‘Over the years I began collecting pieces from different friends and older relatives. Members of the ruling family commissioned pieces to be made, and slowly a collection began to accumulate.’

This precious collection became the topic for Reem’s PhD in Islamic Art and Archaeology. ‘I began to look at my collection more academically. Whatever I had amassed needed to be organised, catalogued and properly chronicled. Then I could see where I needed to fill holes in the collection, looking for specific pieces that I knew needed to be added to make it a proper historical collection.’

This core collection of UAE dress is now known as The Sultani Collection and currently consists of 575 pieces, with some of the dresses dating back to the 1950s, from the pre-oil era all the way through to today.

Reem’s collection and PhD thesis culminated in the publication of the Sultani Book, a work of art in its own right. This 600+ page, two-volume tome contains detailed background and research on the geographical, political and cultural influences on UAE dress, detailed information on the construction of garments, the textiles and embellishments, as well as in-depth analysis of the different items of traditional dress including headdress, body covers, underwear, and footwear.

Over time, Reem’s collection grew and now consists of 1340 items, including garments from the rest of the Arab world. Reem focuses on acquiring items from cultures and regions that are being destroyed by war and displacements like Syria, Yemen and Iraq, as well as those that are losing their culture through modernisation and Westernisation. This broader collection, which includes The Sultani Collection, is known as The Zay Collection.

In 2019, Reem founded The Zay Initiative, with the goal of promoting an understanding of the evolution of Arab and Middle Eastern textile and dress culture, to build public awareness and appreciation of this unique heritage, and to reach out to like-minded institutions to lend and display the collection both regionally and around the world.

The Zay Initiative started as a side project, a way to formalise her collection and collaborations with art and heritage institutions, while Reem still pursues her career as an interior designer and art consultant. But in a very short time, it has taken on a life of its own and outgrown all expectations. Reem now works with a small team who support her on a part-time basis, but what she desperately needs is a space to house the collection in proper museum conditions, as well as patrons to help fund her research and conservation efforts.

The childlike marvel of that little Iraqi girl adopted into the UAE culture and taught to love the beauty of art, sisterhood, and heritage is still as vivid as it ever was.

You can read the full version of this article HERE and to discover more about The Zay Initiative visit their website HERE.

When it’s time to select your next project to stitch, chances are you’ll be considering some of the following criteria before making your decision:

1. Techniques the project uses
2. Materials required and associated costs
3. Time it takes to complete and level of difficulty
4. The finish/construction/usability
5. It’s beauty and aesthetic appeal

This week, we’re showcasing a project that we reckon might just get a tick next to quite a few items on the above list and it’s no wonder when you consider the designer.

Margaret Lee has been part of the Inspirations family for as long as we can remember, with her first project appearing way back in Inspirations issue #21.

Not only is Margaret a highly accomplished stitcher, designer and tutor she is also an astute businesswoman travelling the world working fulltime in her own successful needlework business.

Along the way, Margaret has become both an authority and evangelist for techniques such as Chinese Embroidery and Japanese-style Bead Embroidery.

Quite a few of the most admired projects we have ever published are designed by Margaret herself, and/or feature a form of Chinese Embroidery or Bead Embroidery, such is the popularity of these styles of needlework.

One of the many things we love about working with Margaret is that she is such an innovator and entrepreneur. Everything she designs is done so with meticulous planning and careful thoughtfulness as to the stitching experience, the quality of materials, the finish of the piece and it’s end use.

Which brings us to our feature project for this week, Treasure by Margaret Lee.

Let’s now put our above checklist to use and see how well the project Treasure measures up.

Technique
If you are not familiar with Japanese-style Bead Embroidery, it’s a technique drawn from the traditional practice of Japanese silk embroidery and adopts a more disciplined and planned approach to the embroidery and design process. Easy to learn and very enjoyable to stitch, Margaret has an entire book dedicated to teaching the ‘Art of Bead Embroidery Japanese-Style’ that you can check out HERE. The results of this technique are stunning.

Materials and Cost
Who can resist the allure of shimmering, sparkling beads? Utilising a series of different size and coloured Toho glass seed beads, the finished piece is both eye catching and extremely hard wearing. And the cost? For AU$131 or AU$111.35 for subscribers, you can purchase a Ready-to-Stitch kit that includes everything you need including the card wallet insert with premium quality zip, printed fabrics and a printed pattern with all the instructions. Now that’s good value for money!

Time and Difficulty
With a finished size measuring 8cm x 11cm wide (3 ⅛" x 4 ¼") the compact size of this card wallet makes it the perfect project to either start your Japanese-style Bead Embroidery journey or add it to your ‘Smaller Projects To Do’ list.

Finished Construction/Usability
Clever. That’s how we would describe this design. When you’re looking for something that’s not a framed piece, needlework accessory or an ornamental piece your options narrow, so how great it is that Margaret created a practical project to show off our embroidery that we get to use day in day out.

Beauty and Aesthetic Appeal
We repeat, who can resist the allure of shimmering, sparkling beads? An array of repeating floral motifs sprawl across both sides of the card wallet to magnificent effect. Once finished this is a beautiful piece to behold.

By our count that adds up to five ticks for our list, which means we might just have another Margaret Lee super-popular design on our hands.

Just before we go, two quick notes for you: One of the reasons Margaret is so successful in all she does is because nothing is left to chance. Margaret spent months and months sourcing the highest quality zip she could get her hands on for this project.

We’re sworn to secrecy as to which designer they supply, but when you operate the zip… OH MY! it’s that good. And the best part is all our Ready-to-Stitch kits include this same zip courtesy of Margaret.

Finally, just a note to let you know the Treasure Ready-to-Stitch kit is one of our new generation Handpicked products that now include a printed pattern as part of the purchase, so you don’t need to buy instructions separately.

Option 1 – Purchase Project Instructions

Treasure by Margaret Lee is a sparkling card wallet embellished with a range of glass beads.

Option 2 – Purchase Ready-To-Stitch Kit with Printed Pattern Included

The Inspirations Ready-To-Stitch kit for Treasure includes everything you need to re-create this fabulous card wallet: Fabrics (inc. with pre-printed design), card wallet base with zip, embroidery threads, beads, needles and printed instructions.

Hanabatake by Margaret Lee from Inspirations issue #95 is a dazzling zipped case with Japanese-style bead embroidery.

Lotus by Margaret Lee from the Handpicked Range harmoniously combines Japanese goldwork and bead embroidery in this stunning flower design.

Fabric sits at the foundation of our needlework with the majority of projects we stitch centred around some form of substrate. When you’re shopping for your next piece of fabric, here are some suggestions that might be worth considering:

Quality
Always buy the finest quality fabric you can afford. When you take into account the amount of time, effort and talent you’ll be investing embroidering on it, the last thing you want is your fabric to let you down.

Buy Local
Whenever possible support your local needlework store. Touching and feeling the fabric in person is the best way to ensure you’re getting what you want.

Trust
When buying local is not an option, use a supplier you can trust. Whenever we buy fabric, it’s always based on the recommendation of professional needlework designers so we know it’s good.

A great example of the above principles in action is Ulster linen. We can attest firsthand as to the integrity of this fabric thanks to testimonies from designers who use it extensively such as Margaret Light and Anna Scott and our own experience having used it in hundreds of our kits.

In fact, we love it so much that we have it available on our website to purchase not only in pre-cut sizes, but now we also offer Off White Ulster linen twill, by the half metre.

Don’t chance your stitched creations with just any old fabric.

PS – use the product quantity to let us know how long you would like your piece of fabric, for example 1 QTY = half a metre/20 inches, 2 QTY = 1 metre/40 inches and so on.

Looking for more quality fabric you can trust?

Click below to browse our entire range.

We’ve mentioned before how much we adore Pipers Silks, a UK company producing silk threads exclusively for embroidery. Founded by Jack Piper and now run by his daughter, these quality silks are the threads of choice for many of the world’s best needlework artisans.

Our new thread packs include Autumn, with gorgeous shades of oranges, reds, and yellows; Heather, with vibrant hues of purple; and Imagine, offering a splash of everything with beautiful purples, blues, pinks and reds.

Each thread pack includes 10 cops of premium quality silk threads. With a generous 80m (87.5 yards) on each cop, you’re sure to have plenty of silk to create some truly dazzling projects.

While we still have some stock available we’re not expecting them to last long, so be sure to click the link below and order today before they sell out… again!

The first issue of Inspirations magazine for 2023 is officially Out Now!

Let’s begin by welcoming one of our long-time favourites back to the stage, Deborah Love. It’s been several years since we last enjoyed Deb’s work, so we’re thrilled to bring you her new sachet ‘Between the Lines’, which Deb created using a selection of withdrawn thread techniques.

Another welcome back goes to Susan O’Connor our very own Editor-in-Chief who makes a special cameo in this issue (her first since issue #91) with ‘Off the Hook’ a pair of magnificent paperweights featuring incredibly decorative and intricate fishing flies stitched using surface embroidery that are a real treat to behold.

Our third welcome back for this issue goes to Luzine Happel who last appeared back in issue #69 and is returning with her cushion ‘From the Heart’ that uses Schwalm whitework to depict a pretty, floral bouquet.

While we’re doing our welcomes, American designer Kathy Andrews joins us for the very first time with her regal cushion ‘The Queen’s Pomegranate’ that Kathy has stitched using rich woollen threads in crewel embroidery to create a beautifully detailed ruby red pomegranate. Welcome to Inspirations Kathy!

Di Kirchner has created ‘Rich Harvest’, a colourful grapevine inspired pincushion with Bargello designs worked in crewel embroidery.

Ana Mallah has spoiled us this issue by including two stunning pieces in the one project with ‘Rose & Daisies’, an exquisite three-dimensional bouquet of embroidered flowers. And in case you were wondering, yes, that is her piece ‘Daisies’ featured on the cover of this issue.

While we’re on the subject of flowers, ‘Rare Bloom’ by Hazel Blomkamp is an ornate flower that combines surface embroidery and needlelace.

Rounding out our projects in this issue is Kim Beamish who has created the wonderfully elegant table mat ‘Good Morning’ using pulled thread techniques.

But wait, that’s not all folks… thanks to our roving reporter Anise van der Walt keeping us up to date with all her fabulous finds from around the globe, we have three fascinating needlework articles for you to read.

Changing Lanes discovers the meandering path Sharon Peoples followed to launch herself as an accomplished artist, beginning when her cousins visited one day wearing jeans covered in colourful Mexican embroidery.

In Natural Remedies we meet Aimee Estcourt who stitches purely for pleasure and has developed a very unique style of amplifying specific colour pallets in her designs.

Stitching to The Edge is Carol Cooke’s story on how a decision late in life to attend university as a mature age student freed her inner artist and led to a new career as a textile/multimedia artist and author.

Now that, Ladies and Gentlemen, is one action packed magazine and we haven’t even mentioned Ansie’s Loose Threads article ‘Mindful Creations’ or our book reviews, so if you are not a subscriber and are yet to purchase your copy of the magazine, click on the link below to avoid missing out on all the fun.

Sometimes we ruminate on the idea that, if Inspirations was a gardening or a cooking magazine, instead of selling kits would we sell packets of seeds for each plant featured, or a hamper of ingredients for each recipe perhaps!?

As stitchers we are spoiled for choice when it comes to our ability to engage and participate in re-creating the magnificent pieces that get published. Our ‘seeds’ or ‘ingredients’ for each project might come from our own stash, a trip down to our local needlework store, or we even have the luxury of buying a Ready-to-Stitch kit.

Whether you choose to spoil yourself with a kit or two, or share the love and buy some for a fellow stitcher, click on the link below to browse all the kits from #117 and remember to get in early to avoid disappointment.

Some stitchers like to have the option of having instructions in both printed and digital format.

You might be travelling and only want to pack your iPad/tablet, you might want to keep your magazines in pristine condition, or sometimes it’s nice to have the ability to zoom in on an image or increase the size of the text.

Whatever the need we’ve got you covered with each project from issue #117 now available as a digital pattern.

Click on the link below, add to your cart, download and abracadabra just like that, you have a PDF file to view or print.

If you were to take a moment and review a selection of projects designed by Brenda Sortwell you’d likely notice several recurring themes.

Her work is characterised by bold, confident designs worked in crewel embroidery using a striking and engaging colour palette of wool threads.

Brenda’s specialty is in fact modern crewel design, so her work is often familiar yet fresh and innovative which is a winning combination.

Her latest piece Greensleeves is no exception.

Here are some facts:

Publication: A Passion for Needlework 4 | The Whitehouse Daylesford
Designer: Brenda Sortwell from the UK
Project Name: Greensleeves
Project Type: Cushion
Technique: Crewel Embroidery
Fabric: Linen twill & furnishing weight moiré
Design Transfer Required: Yes
Threads: Crewel wool, metallic and beads
Dimensions: 37cm x 44cm wide (14 1/2" x 17 1/4"), omitting the fringe

From a distance this cushion has an organic rich warmth that somehow you can feel beckoning, enticing you to come and enjoy it’s comfort.

Up close it soon reveals an entire world of intricacy and complexity courtesy of a cacophony of flowers and entwined foliage, every aspect of which has been superbly imagined and skilfully stitched to life.

One of the wonder points in this project that really caught our eye was the glint of gold metallic threads.

Brenda has strategically added the ever-so-slightest touches of gold highlights throughout the cushion to superb effect.

Then there are the tiniest of Miyuki seed beads dotted throughout to elevate the texture and finish even further.

We can’t decide which is more enjoyable, the journey of stitching every element and marvelling at the processes Brenda guides you through, or a night-in cuddling up on the couch with your finished work of art.

Step 1 – Purchase Project Instructions

Greensleeves by Brenda Sortwell is a crewel cushion with abundant flowers, foliage and sparkling highlights.

Step 2 – Purchase Ready-To-Stitch Kit

The Inspirations Ready-To-Stitch kit for Greensleeves includes everything* you need to re-create this pretty cushion: Fabrics (inc. with pre-printed design), trim, sewing thread, embroidery threads, beads and needles.

Revival by Brenda Sortwell from Inspirations issue #111 is a large hexagonal box topped with glorious autumn colours in crewel embroidery, with matching needle box and scissor sheath.

Arcadia by Brenda Sortwell from Inspirations issue #109 features an ornate bird and foliage using the fabulous traditions of Jacobean crewel embroidery.

Reflecting on the stunning purse ‘Treasure’ by Margaret Lee and the beautiful dresses showcased in the Zay Initiative article in this week’s issue, we have put together some more glamorous and sparkly pieces from our readers for you to enjoy in this week’s ‘What Are You Stitching?’ below.

Thank you for sharing your beautiful gown with us Masha, it truly is a work of art. From the design to the amazing number of techniques you have used through to the quality of finish, it’s a breathtaking piece. We’re sure whoever gets the pleasure of wearing it will appreciate its glory.

What a great story of passion, Stephanie. Such a lovely reminder that our needle and thread can take us on incredible journeys and introduce us to amazing people. We can see why you have now become a teacher, your beadwork is exceptional and you will no doubt do an amazing job passing on all the skills you have learned.

‘Then I made a type of Dorset button for the zipper pull, which was also a new experience for me. It was fun and fulfilling to learn a new skill. Now I need to figure out what I’m going to do next.’

Sandra, what a triumph your project is! Not one but two new techniques to add to your ‘stitching’ belt. We especially love all the small details on each season and the addition of beads on your Dorset button which look like delicious apples.

‘I loved making all of the layers of stumpwork pieces for this and adding lots of sparkle to it! This was the Lady of Shalott float.’

A fantastic project, Holly. We’re sure Wilde would be thrilled to know her watercolour design has influenced your work, a few hundred years on. We love that you loved doing it and all the added sparkles are an excellent touch.

Do you like to stitch with beads or sequins? Have you made any stitched clothing? Or have you found your needle and thread ‘calling’ in an unexpected way?

Whatever your stitching story, we’d love to see it! Email photos of what you’ve created with needle and thread along with a few details about the project and your stitching journey to news@inspirationsstudios.com

Become part of the Inspirations family by subscribing to the magazine... we'd love to have you join us!

We’ve just expanded our collection of Corinne Lapierre’s gorgeus felt kits to include the most adorable collection of bunnies!

Flowers for Elizabeth Pinwheels by Susan O’Connor are lovely decorative yet functional items to create.

Golden Needles by June Godwin from Inspirations issue #45 is a dainty pinwheel adorned with a graceful Jacobean-style stem of pomegranate.

Waratah by Jennifer Kennedy from Inspirations issue #80 is a charming redwork pinwheel or ornament worked in easy stitches.

Wood Anemones by Di van Niekerk is a dynamic printed panel with lustrous silk ribbons, softly shaded with delicate pinks and greens, creating a fabulous bouquet of blowsy anemones, fresh from the garden.

April Flowers by Di van Niekerk from the Handpicked Range is a beautiful bouquet of wildflowers worked over a printed background using hand-painted silk ribbons.

Wildflowers by Di van Niekerk from Inspirations issue #113 is a pretty bouquet of wildflowers worked with hand-painted silk ribbon for a contemporary display.

~ John C Maxwell ~

Stay informed of upcoming needlework events taking place all around the world in our What’s On page on the Inspirations Studios Website HERE.