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ISSUE 201, AUG 30 2019
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INSPIRATIONS. ALL Stitched Up!
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Hi There,
Have you ever stopped to consider the difference between a routine and a ritual?

All Stitched Up! issue #161 HERE unpacked the idea of routines and talked about how some of us thrive on them, while others find them suffocating. We encouraged you to think about your own stitching routine - no matter how carefully constructed or haphazard it may be - and relished hearing all the varied ways the Inspirations Community approaches the idea.

Lately though we’ve found ourselves wondering about the difference between a routine and a ritual.
After looking into this further, it seems the difference between them lies not necessarily in the action we take, but rather in the attitude behind the action.
If you think about it, most of our routines - think housework - are in place because certain things need to get done and so we do them. But because they’re not meaningful parts of our day, they are likely to be viewed as chores. Whereas rituals tend to be viewed as more meaningful practices and often give us a sense of purpose.

And that’s when we realized we should all be creating stitching rituals rather than stitching routines - after all, there’d be few among us who’d consider our time with needle and thread a chore!

So, here’s to ensuring we each make our time with needle and thread as meaningful as possible and enjoy the ritual our passion affords us…
 
World of Needlework
Start of an RSN Journey
By Nancy Williams

It doesn’t seem that long ago when Nicola Jarvis convinced me to enrol for the Certificate Course at The Royal School of Needlework in London. While taking her class at the needlework convention ‘Beating Around the Bush’ in 2018, Nicola enthusiastically assured me it would be one of the best things I could do for my career, and more importantly, that I would absolutely love it. I got home that night, booked my place and started saving for the airfare. The months passed quickly and before long, June arrived and I was on my way.
Hampton Court Palace, UK
Most readers will probably be familiar with the Royal School of Needlework, or RSN for short. It started life as The School of Art Needlework in 1872, being granted Royal patronage three years later. Right from its inception, its purpose was to revive the art of needlework and provide employment for educated women who might otherwise find themselves in poverty.
Today, the RSN teaches students from all over the world, and continues to produce hand embroidered commissions for the likes of the Duchess of Cambridge and the Royal Family.
With such hallowed beginnings, I couldn’t help but be excited when I arrived at Hampton Court Palace in the UK on a beautiful summer’s day at the end of June. The students waiting with me were from every part of the globe, and we soon separated into groups and were introduced to our tutors.

I was under the expert guidance of Helen Jones and Chrissy Mann, the latter whom many of you will know as the winner of the Raised Embroidery section of the Stitch Your Heart Out needlework competition in 2018. After climbing a set of ancient stairs, we arrived at the room which would be our studio for the following two weeks, and our journey began.
My stitching seat
Although I was confident with the techniques of crewel embroidery, there was a great deal to learn in the design and preparation process which was new to me. The first couple of days were filled with coloured pencils, stitch plans and learning the intricacies of lacing linen twill on to a slate frame and transferring our designs by the prick and pounce technique. It was only then that we picked up our needles to begin.
The design process
The joy of arriving at the Palace each day and climbing the stairs to the School never grew old.
The stitching was intense – non-stop from 9.00 till 5.00 each day and then homework in the evening. We were instructed not to unpick, and with the time pressure it was good advice. There was a moment early in the second week when Helen looked at me seriously and asked if I had a back-up plan in case I didn’t finish. “I’ll finish” I said with determination, and I did. But I wasn’t the only student who had a lot of late nights.

When our stitching was finally complete, we learnt to mount our work and handed it in, bringing to an end my first ever visit to the RSN.

I was very sad to say goodbye to my tutors, classmates and the School itself. But already I’m excited about returning next year to do my next module. As for how I did? Well, I have to wait until September until I find out, but the truth is, I don’t really mind. I was thrilled with my piece, and I loved every second of the experience at the RSN. 2020, here I come.
The completed piece
Start Your Own RSN Journey…
If Nancy’s story about her RSN journey has inspired you, now is a great time to start your own RSN journey, and it may be easier than you think!
The Royal School of Needlework teaches across 5 locations in the UK, including the magnificent Hampton Court Palace and internationally in the USA and Japan.

Day Classes
A one-day class is the perfect way to start your journey with the Royal School of Needlework. They hold over 150 classes each year offering many different designs and for all levels from beginners to advanced. So, whether you’re a local or visiting from afar, clear a day in your calendar to stitch with the RSN.
Certificate & Diploma in Technical Hand Embroidery
For those looking to take their needlework journey to the next level, the RSN’s Certificate & Diploma in Technical Hand Embroidery is for you. This a flexible course that enables students to reach the highest standards of this long-standing tradition. There are also Intensive Courses which are perfect for international students.

To learn more about learning more, check out the RSN website royal-needlework.org.uk or email them HERE
Needlework News
Inspirations Calendar | September Project
Bee’s are a hot topic of discussion right now as their numbers globally have diminished significantly in recent years. Where perhaps we once only thought of bees as something to avoid for fear of being stung, now there is a whole movement to save and replenish them due to the vital role they play in our food chain.
It’s very fitting then, that our September project in the Inspirations 2019 calendar celebrates these wonderful insects with the magnificent project Honey Bee by Alison Cole from Inspirations issue #90.

The opulent technique of goldwork is the perfect choice to bring the industrious honey bee to life with a selection of metal threads and kid leather to create a lavishly textured surface.
Stitched onto a contrasting background of lustrous black satin, this popular motif is a perfect introduction to this wonderful embroidery technique, with the project now available as a digital pattern.
 
DIGITAL PATTERN
Honey Bee
 
New Book | The Goldwork Masterclass
Continuing with our theme of goldwork and the brilliant designs of Alison Cole, we now have copies of Alison’s brand-new book ‘The Goldwork Masterclass’.
The opulence of metal thread embroidery was once only the domain of royalty, the church and military regalia, but today it’s readily available for all embroiderers to enjoy.
Each chapter of Alison’s book looks at a different aspect of goldwork – from traditional to contemporary. Starting with a little of its rich history and the materials and paddings beneath, through to the glittering threads and techniques for their application – this book takes goldwork apart to give you the inspiration to create your own beautiful metal thread embroidery.
 
PRINTED BOOK
The Goldwork Masterclass
 
 
Featured Project
Maria Katarin’s Reticule by Betsy Morgan
Women’s handbags are fashion items so ubiquitous that we almost don’t notice them. It is rare for a woman to leave her house without one, usually containing every item she could possibly need when out and about. But women didn’t always carry handbags.
When fashion required them to wear long, heavy skirts, their essentials were carried in pockets hidden in the folds of their voluminous dresses.
During the nineteenth century fabrics became lighter and fashions followed suit, meaning pockets were no longer practical. This in turn led to the invention of the reticule.
Early reticules were small bags, often with a drawstring, for those essentials which could no longer be secreted away in a skirt. But it didn’t take long for women to see how useful they were. As a result, the reticule became larger and fuller, used for carrying all sorts of items sometimes to ridiculous degrees.
This is how they mockingly became known as ‘ridicules’, a term Charles Dickens unashamedly used in Oliver Twist. Mock they might, but the practice of carrying that handy little bag didn’t go away and now remains an indispensable part of almost every woman’s wardrobe.

The history of the reticule helps contextualise the delightful pouch designed by Betsy Morgan from Inspirations issue #103. In Betsy’s characteristic fashion, this little purse is brimming with detail and delicate touches.
Created with the experienced counted embroiderer in mind, Betsy has modelled her design on an antique sampler from Pachuca, Mexico worked in 1844. By combining the colour and pattern of nineteenth century Mexico in an item synonymous with Victorian England, Betsy has created a wonderfully unique project which will bring hours of pleasure.
Betsy’s reticule could never receive Dickens’ mocking moniker as it is so delicate and just the right size to fit the handmade sewing accessories which accompany it. Betsy has included a ruler, a handmade bobbin to wrap your spare thread and a scissor fob, all in the same colour scheme and coordinating perfectly with sampler-like design.
But if you thought that this piece just uses cross stitch, you’re in for a surprise.
Turn it over and on the back is a beautifully coloured sampler of different stitches to really stretch your skills. Probably most striking is the exquisite centre piece combining cutwork, Aztec stitch and brilliant colour. This is flanked with a range of stitches providing a wonderful array of varied textures and brilliant colours.
It almost goes without saying but the secret to success in this project is count, count and count again. If you find yourself out by a thread or two, as hard as it might be, it is worth unpicking (or reverse stitching as we affectionately call it) and doing it again. Symmetry is so important in the final effect of this piece so take your time and enjoy every stitch.
If the author of the Mexican sampler and a Victorian lady were to be shown this project, neither would recognise what it is. But the melding of these two very different cultural items is evidence of how fortunate we are nowadays as embroiderers. From pockets, to reticules to this piece, we’ve collected a wealth of influence on the way.
Make Your Own | Maria Katarin’s Reticule
Step 1 – Purchase Project Instructions

Maria Katarin's Reticule by Betsy Morgan is a counted work pouch with matching scissor fob, thread winder and ruler stitched with gorgeous colours and motifs.
 
PRINTED MAGAZINE
Inspirations Issue 103
 
 
DIGITAL PATTERN
Maria Katarin's Reticule
 
 
PRINTED PATTERN
Maria Katarin's Reticule
 
Step 2 – Purchase Ready-To-Stitch Kit

The Inspirations Ready-To-Stitch kit for Maria Katarin’s Reticule includes everything you need to re-create this delightful pouch: Fabrics (unprinted), interfacing, interlining, button, bead, embroidery threads and needles.

Please Note: To cater for flexibility in purchase, instructions are not included with our kits. For step-by-step details on how to create this project, please refer to our magazine or printed/digital patterns.
 
READY-TO-STITCH KIT
Maria Katarin's Reticule
 
 
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DIGITAL PATTERN
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Fallahi
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Edinburgh Etui
Edinburgh Etui by Betsy Morgan from A Passion for Needlework | Factoria VII is a charming etui and accessories with counted work and surface embroidery.
 
READY-TO-STITCH KIT
Edinburgh Etui
 
 
PRINTED BOOK
A Passion for Needlework | Factoria VII
 
What Are You Stitching?
Betsy Morgan’s projects and counting are synonymous with each other as much of her work centres around counted thread embroidery. Inspired by her work, this week we’re sharing some of the projects we have on file that have required the stitcher to count twice before picking up needle and thread to ensure they only had to stitch once…
Anne Shields
‘Anne Shields is a member of our local Northumberland Hills Stitchery Guild here in Cobourg, Ontario and has done miles and miles of smocking! Her dresses, which are always accompanied by either petticoats, jackets or bloomers are just lovely.’
‘Most of Anne’s patterns come from Australian Smocking and Embroidery Magazine, but some are her original designs. Recently I asked Anne to create a matching dress for a little girls’ doll to be used for a twin event. I hope you enjoy the photos of her work.’ From Sheila McCoy.
Sheila, we appreciate you bringing Anne’s work to our attention and we look forward to seeing the matching dolls dresses you’ve asked her to create.
Helen Osborne
‘This is my Hardanger cloth in progress and it has a story and a half to it! It’s been on the go on and off for around four years. Although I had a pattern for it, the size of even weave fabric in the UK is smaller than in US, so I had to redraw the pattern to fit.
It has also survived the disaster of a whole cup of black filter coffee being spilt on it on a train journey from London that I didn't think would come out!
I was on the train when I spilt the coffee - I am disabled and was having a job to get up out of my seat so a lady kindly took the cloth to the toilet to wash it. Unfortunately, it was warm water in the automatic hand basin, so I just had to put it in a plastic bag until I got back home, then soaked it overnight and hoped for the best.’
‘Amazingly it's still here to tell the tale! I will complete it soon if I don't get waylaid with lots of other projects and requests. I've just discovered stumpwork and now have too many projects and not enough hours in each day. Once the cloth is completed and blocked out properly, I will send another photo.’
Helen, not only have you done an immaculate job of stitching, but you’ve done an immaculate job of washing as well! We look forward to seeing the photo of the finished result… once you manage to find a few more hours in each day.
Leann Mamone
‘I recently made this for my daughters’ sixth class teacher to thank her and tell her how blessed we felt having had her as a guide and friend on our family’s journey. It took me a LOT longer to make than I had originally allowed and what was going to be a Christmas gift turned into a very late New Year’s gift instead!’
‘Some of the stitches were new to me and I had difficultly following some of the instructions – detailed as they were. So, I had to adapt the pattern a little bit there at the end for my clumsy fingers. I enjoyed making it though and was pleased overall with the result for my first attempt at Schwalm. Thankfully Mrs Hunt thought it lovely too.’
Leann, what an incredibly thoughtful gift! The time and talent you’ve poured it will make it treasured for years to come.
Linda Lachance
‘I learned basic embroidery skills from my mother and grandmother. In my early twenties I joined our local Quilting and Stitchery Guild where I learned many different types of stitching including hardanger, whitework, blackwork, and crewel work. I also dabbled in quilting and drew some inspiration from the geometric quilt designs.’
‘I was doing a lot of experimental needlepoint with different threads and stitches and as that is where my true love is, I eventually branched out into creating charted canvas work designs.
When the wonderful overdyed threads hit the market, I was hooked!
A friend who owned the local needlework shop at that time, encouraged me greatly.’
‘In 1987 I started a business which primarily offers charted canvas work (needlepoint) designs and it's still going 30 years later. My designs tend to be geometric and my business has also given me the opportunity to travel and teach my designs, and/or attend national seminars throughout Canada and the US. “Stitch and see the world” is my motto and I believe that as long as we’re each enjoying our stitching, in whatever form it takes, using it for zen and relaxation, that is where true satisfaction lies.’
Linda, we love that you’ve been able to turn your passion into a business and think it’s fabulous that you’ve found a way to see the world through stitching! If you’d like to learn more about Linda’s designs, you can check out her website HERE.

Have you stitched something that’s required you to count twice before picking up needle and thread? We’d love to see it! Email photos of what you’ve counted then stitched along with a few details about your stitching journey to news@inspirationsstudios.com
 
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Quote
‘Rituals are the formulas by which harmony is restored.’
~ Terry Tempest Williams ~
What's On
Stay informed of upcoming needlework events taking place all around the world in our new What’s On page on the Inspirations Studios Website HERE.
If you’re holding an event or would like to suggest one to be added, we’d love to hear about it. Email us the details at news@inspirationsstudios.com
INSPIRATIONS
© 2019 Inspirations Studios

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