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ISSUE 150, AUGUST 10 2018
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Hi There,
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In 1889 Oscar Wilde declared that ‘Life imitates Art’ and yet we often find that it is our stitching that imitates our lives, especially in our approach to needle and thread.
Many of the thoughts, beliefs, habits and processes we engage in throughout our lives are directly reflected in our practice with needle and thread. For some of us this serves us well, but for others we find our stitching limited because of them.
In her book, ‘The Gifts of Imperfection’, Brené Brown unpacks ten guideposts for wholehearted living - a way to cultivate the courage, compassion and connection to believe that no matter what gets done or how much is left undone, we are enough.
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Isn’t that our aim - to ensure the time we spend with needle and thread is wholehearted and no matter the results, we find our stitching is simply enough?!
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After considering Brené’s ten guideposts, we realised many of them have the ability to make us wholehearted stitchers…
Cultivate Authenticity | Let Go of What People Think
Cultivate Self-Compassion | Let Go of Perfectionism
Cultivate Gratitude and Joy | Let Go of Scarcity
Cultivate Intuition | Let Go of the Need for Certainty
Cultivate Creativity | Let Go of Comparison
Cultivate Calm and Stillness | Let Go of Anxiety
By approaching our stitching with each of these guideposts in mind, we’ll find our time spent with needle and thread becomes richer and the doors to amazing new possibilities open before us.
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Embroidered Undergarments Through History
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By Nancy Williams
I was searching the internet when I came across a glorious photograph of a pair of embroidered women’s knickers from the late 16th Century. It’s probably best not to ask what I was searching for at the time! However, the picture made me wonder how much embroidery has been hidden from view by virtue of the fact it was worked on undergarments.
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Linen embroidered knickers c.1630 – ( source) |
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These knickers were apparently worn by a Venetian courtesan in around 1630. They are embroidered in blue thread using double running stitch and repeated gaily across the drawers is the statement “I want the heart”. One can only wonder whether this request, worked in such delicate stitching, actually produced the desired result?
My research then turned up an exhibition held a couple of years back at the V&A in London. Entitled “Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear”, the display showed the changing styles of both men’s and women’s undergarments across the course of history.
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Silk Chiffon knickers, 1930s – The Royal Pavillion and Museums, Brighton and Hove ( source) |
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Looking through the images, my eye was caught by these silk chiffon knickers, embroidered with birds and hunters. Apparently, their wearer, Lady Betty Holman, was so pleased with the stitching that she decided to show them off to a group of Iraqi women in the early 1940s with the hope of breaching the language barrier. I was thrilled to read that it worked – the women were delighted.
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You wouldn’t need a common language to admire the workmanship, to say nothing of Lady Holman’s pluck!
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Stocking worn by Queen Alexandra c.1900. Victoria and Albert Museum, London ( source) |
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Finally, Queen Alexandra proudly displayed a glimpse of these hand embroidered stockings around 1900. Although it was somewhat scandalous at the time, it soon became completely acceptable for women to expose their stockinged lower legs to the world and I wouldn’t be surprised if the Queen’s action was instrumental in that. I’d say the scandal would have been hiding the vivid red poppies and intricate hand stitching away.
Nowadays our undergarments are mass produced and generic. But just imagine putting on something you had spent days or even weeks days embroidering. Would you want to cover it up?
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Scissors to Standout
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It seems most practical items these days are given a little extra cool factor, like an unusual shape, a fancy design or just something to help them stand out in the crowd. This week we’ve added some decorative scissors to help you stand out in the stitching crowd.
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Fancy a pair of quality embroidery scissors sculpted into the shape of the Eiffel Tower? Or how about a pair of Scissoroos – scissors made in the image of the Aussie icon the kangaroo?
Quality blades, lovely to use, super cool designs. What more could one want?
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WARES
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Embroidery Scissors | Eiffel Tower
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WARES
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Embroidery Scissors | Kangaroo
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If eye catching colours and motifs are more your thing, check out our range of Gingher Designer Series scissors, on our website today.
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We love it when the content published in our newsletter sparks conversation from the Inspirations Community! Read on to find out what our readers had to say in response to All Stitched Up! #147 ( HERE)… |
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Response to World of Needlework
‘Just a note about the twists in the plying of threads - depending on the thread, whether it is cotton, linen, silk, wool or manmade, the way light is reflected off your stitch can be affected by the twist and how you thread it into your needle. Not a whole lot is made of this nowadays, however years ago when I was studying surface work, this was something to be considered in designing a project and working it. The point being the necessity of being consistent in the direction chosen as you will get a very matt finish or less so depending on how the light is reflected.’
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Response to Feature Article
‘I read your article in the Inspirations Newsletter about Ghiordes stitch which was very informative. I sewed a goldwork picture of a thistle and used the stitch. I call it Turkey knot stitch. I used gold Coats Ophir and it worked very well making a fluffy end to the flower.’
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Response to Have Your Say
After pointing Pat in the right direction for her upcoming trip to Bruges, we close this week’s ‘Have Your Say’ with a heartfelt thanks…
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‘Dear Fellow Stitchers, thank you all so much for your suggestions on where to explore in Bruges for embroidery shops on our upcoming holiday. I’ve been overwhelmed by the generous information from fellow embroiders and likeminded people. It’s wonderful to know that a common thread ties us together across the world. Thank you again for your kind information and best wishes for our upcoming trip. Thank you also to Inspirations for making this information available to readers of this world-famous magazine. Regards, Pat Taylor.’
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Fine Tradition by Pat Olski
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Dorset buttons… you’ve either never heard of them, or you’re addicted to them, there doesn’t seem to be much middle ground!
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This week we welcome Pat Olski to the Inspirations family with her debut project ‘Fine Tradition’, a collection of totally adorable and totally addictive Dorset buttons.
Never heard of them…
Let’s start with those of us who have never heard of Dorset buttons. They were actually developed in the early 1600’s (so where have you been? 😊) in a place named Dorset, a county in the southwest of England. They became such a phenomenon they were a mainstay of the British economy for hundreds of years and by the end of the 1700’s more than 4,000 people called themselves buttoners.
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| Here is an excerpt from an article Pat has written to help explain a little more about Dorset buttons:
‘The buttons were originally created from linen wound over rings made from ram’s horns, and then later, linen wound over brass rings. They became staples for dressmaking because they could withstand the harsh laundering techniques of the time.
The simple white buttons were used on undergarments, and shirtwaists, while the fancier and more vibrant versions seem to have been made for men’s waistcoats, where they could be shown to their greatest advantage.
Dorset buttons were made in England and exported all over the world, even as far as Australia. Among the textile treasures in the Maas Museum collection in Sydney, Australia is an extraordinary white dress circa 1838, which features exquisite white work, cutwork, and floral embroidery.
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Julia Johnston early colonial Australian dress 1836-1840 – Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences ( source) |
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Finishing touches on the garment include piping and beautiful examples of thread wrapped Blandford cross wheel Dorset buttons. The details on the dress give insight to some of the needlework intricacies worn by Australia’s early 1800’s elite.’
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For her project ‘Fine Tradition’ in issue #99 Pat has created a wonderful mix of different Dorset button designs and sizes. The larger size is perfect for use as a brooch with a diameter of 3.8cm (1 ½”) and features a thistle design in two colourways; gold with blue and cream with violet.
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The smaller size is more suited for buttons measuring 3cm (1 1/8”) in diameter with designs including a forget-me-not flower, a rose bush and also a thistle.
Totally addicted to them…
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For those of you who are totally addicted to Dorset buttons, it’s ok we get it, they are a lot of fun to make and, just like eating m&m’s or potato chips, you can’t stop at just one!
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Dorset buttons are so versatile that while they are often used as the perfect embellishment on a knitted garment, they are also very useful in upholstering and pillow-making, quilting and even adding a finishing touch to a needlework accessory. Other uses include hair accessories, fridge magnets, key rings, greeting card decorations and Christmas tree ornaments. The list is endless.
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With so much to like about Fine Tradition, it’s no wonder Pat is well known for her ability to take traditional techniques and translate them into relevant and approachable designs that are fun to make, as she explains in her own words:
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‘With all of the gorgeous threads at our disposal today, we can create endless variations based on the techniques of the original buttoners. The addition of embroidery stitches is contemporary, but irresistible. A traditional Dorset cartwheel button provides a perfect background for an embroidered spray of flowers and is a lovely way to display your fine handiwork.’
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So, there you have it, what’s not to love about Dorset buttons? In fact, to make it even easier to fall in love and share the Dorset addiction with friends and family, you can purchase each of Pat’s five designs as ready-to-stitch kits in packs of six for the buttons and five for the brooches. See below for details.
Did You Know?
Carolyn Pearce’s bestselling project ‘Strawberry Fayre’ from Inspirations #95 features a Dorsett button on the front as a clasp to keep the necessaire neatly closed.
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This is a great example of how the practical need for a button can be elevated and become a feature by creating a Dorset button that blends perfectly with this highly ornate project.
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PRINTED MAGAZINE
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Inspirations Issue 95
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If you would like to read more about the History of the Dorset button, check out the Henry’s Buttons website HERE
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For more information about Pat Olski, visit her website Yarn Whirled HERE to see more of her fabulous creations, find out where she is teaching and updates on her new upcoming book ‘Creating Dorset Buttons’. |
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Make Your Own Fine Tradition
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Step 1 – Purchase Project Instructions
Fine Tradition by Pat Olski includes two brooch, and three button designs.
These pretty floral designs, worked in a contemporary twist on Dorset buttons, display inventive wrapping and weaving to create stylised flowers or a base on which further embroidery can be worked.
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PRINTED MAGAZINE
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Inspirations Issue 99
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DIGITAL PATTERN
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Fine Tradition
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Step 2 – Purchase Ready-To-Stitch Kits
The Inspirations Ready-To-Stitch kits for each design include everything you need to re-create these sweet brooches and buttons: Brooches – 5 plastic rings, 5 brooch findings, wool felt, embroidery threads and needles. Buttons – 6 plastic rings, embroidery threads and needles.
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READY-TO-STICH-KITS
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Browse Fine Tradition Kits
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Looking for More Brooches
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Victoriana by Anne Davies from Inspirations #94 is two enchanting silk ribbon brooches edged with delicate beading.
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READY-TO-STITCH KIT
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Victoriana
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READY-TO-STITCH KIT
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Victoriana: Rose Bouquet
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Buttercup by Jenny Adin-Christie from Inspirations #84 is a delicate whitework button brooch embellished with pearls and sequins.
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PRINTED MAGAZINE
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Inspirations Issue 84
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Birdsong by Gary Clarke from Inspirations #93 is three fabulous brooches featuring Australian birds.
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PRINTED MAGAZINE
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Inspirations Issue 93
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FREE DOWNLOADABLE DESIGN
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Birdsong (design only)
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The Dandelyne Mini Hoops range includes brooch sets in four sizes. Each hoop comes with an insert, backing, pin clasp and brass nuts and a bolt to create a beautifully finished piece that you will love to wear – all you need to provide is a little bit of imagination and the needles and thread for the embroidery.
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WARES
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Dandelyne Mini Hoops
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Sometimes the results of our stitching are on a grand scale, almost larger than life. Whilst at other times the scale is much smaller, just like the Dorset buttons seen in our ‘Featured Project’ this week. Inspired by their diminutive size, this week we share the smaller things that have been created with needle and thread…
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Diane Martin | Canada
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‘Amongst other things, I have completed a set of bookmarks over the last year. Three of them are Tanja Berlin's design and kits, and the other three are my own creations. From left to right, my designs are the first, fourth and fifth. Thank you for all the inspiration you give me weekly.’
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Diane, we love that you were able to build upon what you learnt from stitching Tanja’s kits by designing your own bookmarks. You are definitely making the items in your world more beautiful one stitch at a time!
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Julie-Anne Rogers | Australia
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‘Four years ago I was lucky enough to travel to Slovenia and visit a local artists' co-operative shop. I bought a small piece of bobbin lace that is quite exquisite. It has been kept out of sight until a few weeks ago. I had been very stressed with both family and work issues and a severe lack of time, but on a Sunday I had a block of 30 minutes free and decided to pick up the lace and do something with it. I painted the rose hip from one of my photos, using Inktense block paint mixed with Aloe Vera gel instead of water as this stops the paint from spreading through the material. Later that evening, after it had dried, I did some simple stitching around it. The total piece is 8cm (3”) from side to side.
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Not only am I very happy with the piece and can now frame and display it, the process relaxed me and made me able to cope with my stresses.
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Julie-Anne, we love that you took the time to stitch your way through your stress and that you were able to create such a personal keepsake from your time in Slovenia.
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Lee Harvey | New Zealand
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‘At almost 75, I have been stitching and knitting all my life. I learnt tatting and lacemaking at 16 and enjoy stumpwork, goldwork, cross stitch and stitching miniature tapestries and carpets for my dolls houses. The news that Sydney is displaying The Lady and The Unicorn Tapestry has motivated me to send you this photograph of the tapestry I stitched for my dolls house castle.
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I stitched it on 46 count silk canvas with one strand of embroidery thread and it measures only 18 x 15 cm (7 x 9”). I love my Inspirations Magazines and enjoy stitching projects out of them.’
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Lee, what an incredible amount of detail you’ve been able to include in such a small space. Your dolls houses must be opulent and magical places to call home!
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Stephanie St Clair | USA
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‘This is my second Trish Burr ‘Whitework with Color’. I’ve been a cross-stitcher for over 30 years, but just picked up embroidery about two years ago.
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I’ve fallen in love with hand embroidery so much that I just finished attending the Royal School of Needlework’s first USA Summer School and will be attending the RSN’s Jacobean Crewelwork 2-week intensive certificate course in October!’
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Stephanie, we love that you’ve used your needle and thread to create one of the world’s smallest birds in stitch! The detail and colour make it a sight to behold and we look forward to seeing it again when finished.
Have you ‘stitched it small’? We’d love to see it! Email photos of what you’ve created with needle and thread and a few details about your stitching journey to news@inspirationsstudios.com |
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Subscribe to Inspirations Magazine
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Not a Subscriber? Join Today!
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Become part of the Inspirations family by subscribing to the magazine... we'd love to have you join us!
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Saving Grace by Barbara Kershaw is an elegant linen cloth embellished with drawn thread techniques.
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PRINTED MAGAZINE
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Inspirations Issue 99
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DIGITAL PATTERN
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Saving Grace
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READY-TO-STICH-KIT
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Saving Grace
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Noël by Barbara Kershaw from Inspirations #96 is a superb whitework Christmas stocking with Schwalm embroidery.
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PRINTED MAGAZINE
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Inspirations Issue 96
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Queen of Hearts by Kim Beamish from Inspirations #86 is an elegant Hardanger mat ideal for beginners.
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PRINTED MAGAZINE
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Inspirations Issue 86
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Enjoy counted work with this graceful Hardanger design, Resting Place, by Kim Beamish from Inspirations #90.
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PRINTED MAGAZINE
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Inspirations Issue 90
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Bianca by Patricia Girolami from Inspirations #66 is a stunning Hardanger mat with delicate lacy edging borders and an intricate Maltese cross design surrounding the central motif.
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Heart’s Delight by Kim Beamish from Inspirations #94 is a charming pulled thread mat with heart motifs.
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DIGITAL PATTERN
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Heart's Delight
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Wow, look at this latest creation from Jenny Adin Christie
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How cute is this by Paulina Bart
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‘Authenticity is the daily practice of letting go of who we think we’re supposed to be and embracing who we are.’
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~ Brené Brown ~
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NOW TO 11 AUG
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Contemporary Textiles Exhibition
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Buda Historic Home and Garden
42 Hunter Street Castlemaine, Victoria
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NOW TO 26 AUG
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Jan Taminiau | Reflections Exhibition
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A major exhibition on the work of Jan Taminiau
Centraal Museum
Agnietenstraat 1, 3512 XA Utrecht, The Netherlands
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NOW TO 31 AUG
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Hanging Thread: Gillian Creelman
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San Francisco School of Needlework & Design
Suite 604/360 Post Street, San Francisco
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7 TO 9 SEP | 10:00 TO 4:00
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Romancing the Threads Exhibition
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E.A Hunt Hall, Tocal College
Tocal Road Paterson, New South Wales
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15 TO 22 SEP
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FACT and Friends Exhibition
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Fibre Artists Cape Town
Nova Constantia (next to Buitenverwachting)
Cape Town, South Africa
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| sheilaq@telkomsa.net
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22 TO 29 SEP
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Endeavour’s First Voyage
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Merseyside Embroiderers’ Guild Exhibition | Endeavour’s First Voyage
Anglican Cathedral
Liverpool, UK
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© 2018 Inspirations Studios
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